In the cool, pine-scented mountains of Southern California, Big Bear offers a chill vibe and stunning scenery plus close proximity to Palm Springs, Los Angeles, and San Diego.

Big Bear Lake LGBTQIA+ Guide

If you're in metro Los Angeles, San Diego, or Palm Springs and you're craving a day of snowboarding or skiing in the mountains, or a cool lakeside respite from summer heat and crowded ocean beaches, a road-trip to Big Bear Lake can provide a surprisingly quick, affordable, and scenic fix. This crisp-aired laid-back town with a few thousand year-round residents sits high in the San Bernardino Mountains at an elevation of about 6,700 feet and is anchored by the clear blue lake for which it's named.

Photo above: Big Bear Lake from the Castle Rock Trail - photo by Andrew Collins

As an LGBTQIA+ vacation getaway, Big Bear is perfect for couples and groups of friends traveling together. The town abounds with cabins and lodges set around the lake and also in the evergreen-studded foothills surrounding it. It's easy to find rentals with multiple bedrooms on Airbnb, and there are also several mid-priced hotels and cabin compounds in town—nothing too fancy (Aspen or even Tahoe, this is not). Surrounded by 71,000-acre San Bernardino National Forest, which makes up about half of the relatively newly proclaimed Sand to Snow National Monument, and just an hour to 75-minute drive from the Inland Empire cities of Riverside and San Bernardino, Big Bear draws a broad cross section of visitors: families, young couples, fishing and boating enthusiasts, hikers, skiers, retirees.

It's not especially liberal, nor is it a bastion of conservatism. So although most of the year you're not going to encounter a ton of fellow LGBTQIA+ visitors, you can expect a friendly vibe. The main reason for visiting is to enjoy a stupendous natural setting, with awesome skiing, hiking, biking, and boating depending on the time of year. And as it’s just two- to three-hour drive from Los Angeles and San Diego (and just a 90-minute drive of Palm Springs), it’s a relatively accessible alpine destination for a huge swath of LGBTQIA+ Southern Californians.

For more information on the area, visit the helpful website of the Big Bear Visitors Bureau. You can also stop by the bureau’s excellent visitor center, at 630 Bartlett Road (it’s downtown, steps from the main commercial drag, Pine Knot Avenue)—it’s generally open daily 9–5.

Big Bear Romp 2024

If you’d prefer visiting when you're sure to find plenty of queer folk in town, considering attending the annual Big Bear Romp in mid-August (the dates this year are August 15–18, 2024), a fun and well-attended gathering that geared decidedly to the bear community, although all are quite welcome. Check the website and the official Big Bear Romp Facebook page for the latest updates.

Big Bear Romp takes place over four days in August, and activities are centered around the main host hotel, the Lodge at Big Bear Lodge–a Holiday Inn Resort, which is offering special rates during throughout the event. There are 14 hours of daily gatherings by the pool, a vendor marketplace, and nighttime parties featuring top DJs and entertainment (there’s always a well-known headliner, such as the legendary Lady Bunny, who has appeared in the past). Saturday night’s ROMP in the Dark Leather & Gear Dance Party is billed as “Southern California’s biggest summer leather party.” Speed dating, a bowling & beer bust at the Bowling Barn, barbecues, lake cruises, fun at Mountain Room Escapes, zipline tours, and drag bingo brunch (hosting by the infamously hilarious Babette Schwartz) round out the entertainment options. Check out the full Big Bear Romp schedule for details. Although the crowd is decidedly bearish and cubbish, the organizers make a point of welcoming men of all kinds, and you will find plenty of guys of different ages and styles.

Big Bear Top Experiences

Snow Summit and Big Bear Mountain Resort. Formerly two resorts and now one giant span of gorgeous alpine scenery with sweeping views of Big Bear Lake, Southern California's largest ski resort offers consistently excellent conditions for skiing and snowboarding during its roughly five-month season (mid-Nov.–early Dec. through early Apr.), depending on weather conditions). Expect fluffy powder and plenty of sunshine most of the time. The more than 60 trails are mostly intermediate and expert, but about 15% are for beginners, and they're served by about 14 lifts. The highest runs approach nearly 9,000 feet in elevation, and the resort has a vertical drop of 1,665 feet. There are also several terrain parks and the region’s only superpipe, Other features include a three-lane tubing park, night skiing, and a ski and snowboard school.

In summer at Big Bear Mountain Resort, you can buy an Adventure Pass, which includes access to the resort’s climbing wall, zip line, bungee trampoline, and Quick Jump free-fall. During the warmer months, you can also buy a ticket for the Scenic Sky Chair, which whisks you more than a mile to the top of the mountain, where you can embark on a 1-mile loop hike (you can also hike up the slopes), and there's also 18 miles (with adjacent access to another 60 miles) of superb mountain biking trails. Lift and Lunch packages, which include dining at the casual and beautifully situated Skyline Taphouse, are a popular way to experience the mountain in summer. Also part of the resort is Big Bear Mountain Golf Course, a scenic 9-hole, par 35 layout.

Big Bear Hiking. There are dozens of opportunities for hikes in the area, including about a 40-mile stretch of the famed Pacific Crest Trail, which snakes through the mountains to the east and north of the lake. If you’re interested in hiking a portion of the trail as a day trek, the best access points from town are where the trail crosses Highway 18 at Onyx Summit (10 miles east of downtown) and at Holcomb Creek (off Coxey Rd., about 12 miles northwest of downtown).

One of the most rewarding treks, and one that you can easily manage in a couple of hours, is the 2-mile round-trip excursion to Castle Rock. The route, which is a bit steep in places on its 600-foot ascent, passes by massive, fanciful-shaped boulders en route to its namesake grouping of rock ledges that afford sweeping views of the lake. For a longer jaunt you can continue another 1.3 miles to forest road 2N86. There’s a parking lot a couple of hundred feet east of the trailhead on Highway 18. Also popular are the Pine Knot Trail, a 7-mile round-trip trek into the mountains south of downtown Big Bear Lake with sweeping lake vistas from Grand View Point at the top, and the Cougar Crest Trail, which climbs from the Big Bear Discovery Center (see below), near the lake’s north shore, and eventually meets up with the Pacific Crest Trail—it’s 5.4 miles round-trip.

An easy option that's popular both for hiking and biking is the 5.4-mile Alpine Pedal Path, which skirts the northeastern shore of the lake for about 2.7 miles in each direction. Road biking around this lake is another popular activit—it's about a 17-ride drive to circle it. There are also plenty of spots to stop just for a quick stroll, including colorful Boulder Bay Park, on the southwest side of the lake,

Big Bear Alpine Zoo (BBAZ). Despite having the word zoo in it's name, this facility that sits at an elevation of 7,100 aims primarily to rehabilitate and ultimately reintroduce injured and rescued animals to their native environment. More than 85 species of mammal and birdlife indigenous to San Bernardino County, and especially the region's high desert and mountain environments, reside here at this preserve. It's one of only a pair of alpine zoos in the country. Formerly located by the ski area, the zoo’s new facility is at 42801 Moonridge Road. On a visit, you may be lucky enough to view arctic foxes, barn owls, bobcats, grizzly and black bears, flying squirrels, wolves, mountain lions, and many others. All of these animal residents live here because they wouldn't be able to live safely in the wild. Note that the animals' enclosures are designed chiefly with their comfort and health in mind, not to optimize the viewing experience of visitors, so don't come expecting clear views of animals at all times. There are also daily (at noon) opportunities to learn about different animals in the zoo's amphitheater as well as many other programs that touch on the zoo's behavioral enrichment programs.

Big Bear Discovery Center. A handsome, contemporary building nestled amid soaring pines near the north shore of the lake, this center operated by the nonprofit Southern California Mountains Foundation, is both a terrific resource for learning about environmental science and a fun place to get out in nature. Easy interpretative trails with informative signage lead from the center through surrounding San Bernardino National Forest (and the longer Cougar Crest Trail can be accessed and followed to where it joins the Pacific Crest Trail—see above), and a wide range of programs geared to all ages are offered - eco tours, guided nature walks, exhibits on local flora and fauna, lectures, and the like. Some evenings, the center's amphitheater presents concerts and theater. The friendly, knowledgeable rangers here can provide maps and advice for hiking, biking, picnicking, and camping, issue national forest Adventure Passes and other permits.

Big Bear Boating and Water Receation. There are plenty of ways to spend time on the water at Big Bear Lake, from lake cruises through Pirate Ship Tours out of Big Bear Hollaways Marina to renting a fishing or water-skiing boat from Big Bear Marina Charter Service.

Side trips to Lake Arrowhead and Crestline, or to Joshua Tree National Park

From every direction, the drive to Big Bear Lake is dazzling. You’ll encounter view points that take in the surrounding Southern California Desert and find numerous spots that are ideal for a picnic or even a short hike. If you’re traveling to Big Bear Lake from Los Angeles or San Diego, it’s fastest to follow the I-10 or I-15 freeways to the small city of Highland, at the base of the mountains, and then continue along winding Hwy. 330 up into the mountains, where it joins with Hwy. 18 (the main road through the mountains) at the small village of Running Springs.

Crestline

However, you can follow a far more scenic route that provides you access to some of the other nifty little towns up in the San Bernardino Mountains, and without stops, you’ll only add about an hour to your trip. To go this route, from the junction of I-10 and I-15 in Ontario, head north on I-15 to exit 131 for Hwy. 138 (about 20 miles), and then follow Hwy. 138 east as it curves around rippling Silverwood Lake (there’s a nice viewpoint along the road) and then twists and turns into the mountains toward the small mountain resort village of Crestline, which sits fringes the shores of little Lake Gregory (there’s a lovely little park along the west side of the lake, near town, and a dog park as well). As you approach Crestline along Hwy. 138, make a left onto Knapps Cutoff and continue east, joining Lake Drive, which is lined with a handful of funky shops, lodgings, and restaurants—the laid-back, diner-style Crestline Cafe is a nice option for a quick breakfast, lunch, or dinner.

Lake Arrowhead

From Crestline, follow Lake Gregory Drive south from the west shore of the lake, following it to Hwy. 18—also know as Rim of the World Highway (insert you own joke here), the main east-west route through the mountains. Continue a few miles and make a left (following the signs) toward the Lake Arrowhead, another extremely popular mountain town that’s actually a bit more populous than Big Bear Lake. The main hub of town is a small peninsular commercial district on the lake called Lake Arrowhead Village, where you’ll find a very nice hotel, the very gay-friendly Lake Arrowhead Resort & Spa—which is part of Marriott’s Autograph Collection and is arguably the fanciest and most romantic lodging option in the region. It’s a great overnight option if you want to split you time between Big Bear and Lake Arrowhead. In addition to the resort’s excellent Bin 189 Restaurant, you’ll find several appealing places to eat near or overlooking the lake in Lake Arrowhead Village, including the locavore-minded and craft-beer-centric Lakefront Taproom Bar and Kitchen.

From Lake Arrowhead, return to Hwy. 18 and continue through Running Springs to Big Bear—a continuously beautiful route, especially the last several miles, that takes about 45 minutes to drive. Without stops, following this entire route from Ontario to Big Bear Lake is about a two-hour investment.

Big Bear to Landers and Joshua Tree

Another picturesque option, if you’re headed east toward Palm Springs or eventually central Arizona, is to leave Big Bear Lake via Hwy. 18, following it northeast to Hwy. 247, and then following this east and southeast through the funky desert community of Landers, and then to Yucca Valley, where you can access the incredible landscape of Joshua Tree National Park before continuing your journey to Palm Springs. Without stops, this drive takes about two hours and is only about 15 minutes longer than if you cut down via Hwy. 330 to Highland. If you’re traveling to Joshua Tree’s West Entrance Station near Yucca Valley, from Big Bear Lake it’s about a 90-minute drive.

Where to Eat and Play in Big Bear

Many of the best dining options in the area are located right in the heart of the picturesque and compact downtown, which is centered along Pine Know Avenue and runs south from the lake for a few blocks to Village Drive, which has a few more notable shops and places to eat. This is a rustic, lively downtown that’s mostly the domain of locally owned businesses and makes for an attractive late afternoon or evening stroll. Dining highlights along this stretch include Fire Rock Burgers & Brews, serves up creatively topped burgers heated over lava rocks and with interesting toppings (consider the bacon-infused “Bat Country” burger with smoked gouda, garlic-sauteed mushrooms, grilled red onions, applewood-smoked bacon, arugula, and garlic-herb aioli). They also serve an excellent selection of local craft beers (the Angelica Hazy IPA is a standout) along with milkshakes and campfire s’mores. The same owners run the neighboring pizza joint, Saucy Mama’s.

Other good bets in the heart of Big Bear village include festival Murray’s Saloon and Eatery, an unpretentious tavern with fish tacos, burgers, fish-and-chips, and other comfort food—there’s also a pool table and karaoke, making it a pretty fun watering hole well into the evening. And there’s delicious Indian and Nepalese fare to be had at Himalayan, where the specialties include lamb curry with naan, paneer tikka masala, clay-oven-roasted mixed grill (with chicken tandoori, lamb sekuwa, and shrimp), and vegetable thali.

You might be surprised to find fresh and tasty Hawaiian-style poke and grills up in the mountains, but Local Tropicali—on the east side of downtown—turns out flavorful poke, jerk chicken, and other bowls, plus colorful cocktails in a bright and funky island-style space with indoor and outdoor seating. They also offer a nice selection of coffee and espresso drinks. And casual but cheerful Gaby’s Latin Flavors is a nice option for a range of pan-Latin dishes, from Bolivian silpancho (breaded steak with sliced potatoes and pico de gallo) to Mexican chile rellenos.

It’s little out of the way if you’re staying in or near downtown, but in the quaint little village of Fawnskin, near the northwest shore of Big Bear Lake, the North Shore Cafe is one of the greatest culinary finds in the area. Open for breakfast and lunch most days and dinner on Fridays and Saturdays, this charming husband-and-wife operated spot is pet-friendly (on the lower level) and has a pretty patio, and the made-from-scratch cooking is consistently excellent. Try grilled and seasoned trout with eggs for breakfast, and filet mignon or grilled duck breast with a port wine-fig sauce at dinner.

For a first-rate morning pick-me-up or shot of adrenaline later in the day, head to Big Bear Coffee Roasting Company, which has high-octane cold brew, caramel lattes, flat whites, and the like.

Big Bear LGBTQIA+ Nightlife

You’re not going to find any gay bars per se in this town (or anywhere up in these mountains, for that matter, although during Big Bear Romp, Stillwells (which often has live music) at the Lodge at Big Bear Lake and Nottinghams at Robinhood Resort are the site of several events and gatherings. Convivial Big Bear Lake Brewing Company and the urbane 572 Social Kitchen & Lounge are also inviting spots for a drink any time of year—the latter has an attractive, tree-shaded outdoor patio. Also very fun in the evenings and also a big supporter of the LGBTQ community, the bright-red Big Bear Bowling Barn offers 16 lanes of bowling and has a popular sports bar as well.

Where to Stay in Big Bear

Some of the most appealing overnight options at the lake are cabin and home rentals, of which there are many. You'll find plenty of them on Airbnb, and local Big Bear Vacations is a terrific local agency that's very LGBTQIA+-supportive and includes a number of perks, such as deals on lift tickets at the ski area, kayaking on the lake and so on. The company gives back to the community and runs a helpful blog on things to see and do in the area. Rates vary greatly depending on location and amenities, but a 1-bedroom rental for two could start anywhere from about $125/night on a summer or fall weekend to closer to $200/night during ski weekend in winter, with fancier or larger units running much higher (maybe $1,000 night for a three-bedroom luxury chalet in winter).

There are several hotels right in the heart of town, including the Lodge at Big Bear Lake–a Holiday Inn Resort, which is a host of the gay Big Bear Romp each August and has contemporary lodge-style rooms and suites, a location within walking distance of downtown restaurants and the lake (but not an actual lake location), plus a restaurant, bar, gym, outdoor pool, billiards room, and other helpful amenities. At the foot of the bustling commercial strip, Pine Knot Avenue, Robin Hood Resort has pleasant rooms in a few different buildings, its accommodations ranging from budget-friendly and functional to more lavish with spa tubs, decks or balconies, and gas fireplaces. It’s across the street from the lake, and some rooms do have limited water views.

The advantage of these downtown properties is being within walking distance of dining and shopping as well as the lakefront, but if you're seeking a more remote and relaxing setting, and the potential for rooms with actual lake views, you might consider Noon Lodge at Mallard Bay, a handsome, upscale, boutique-size cabin compound that’s with a tranquil setting by the lake. Perhaps the most stylish and distinctive property in the area, Noon Lodge stands out for its clean lines and smartly designed mid-century aesthetic—it’s a sister property to LA’s cool urban retreat, the Noon on Sunset Hill. You’ll encounter a thoughtfully curated lodge-chic charm to the furnishings and colors in the 16 cabins, which include compact studios with a queen bed, A-frame lofts, and roomy three-bedroom retreats that can sleep seven or eight guests. There’s a pool, firepit and barbecue area, and bocce court, and the vibe is decidedly urbane and hip, yet happily unfussy, too. Note that this is also a cabin-rental and not a hotel per se, so there’s limited staffing. Just across the street, Lagonita Lodge is a well-run condo-style compound directly on the lake with spacious rooms that have small kitchens, gas fireplaces, and large balconies. The decor and vibe is old-school lake lodge (although there are plenty of cute bear paintings and woodcarvings to make you smile). Amenities include an indoor pool and exercise room, a boat dock that you can also fish from, and a lovely deck overlooking the lake with picnic tables and a hot tub. It’s hard to beat the setting, and you can find some great deals on rooms during the week.

Another good bet, located just east of town and close to the Bear Mountain Ski Resort, the Best Western Big Bear Chateau is a reliable, mid-range property with a restaurant and pool and a pretty pine-shaded setting.

All photography at AndrewsTraveling.com is by Andrew Collins, unless otherwise noted.